Sunday, August 31, 2014

An Evaluation of the Sustainability of El Camino de Santiago and the John Muir Trail


Sustainability
Sustainable is given three definitions in the Merriam-Webster Dictionary: “Able to be used without being completely used up or destroyed”; “Involving methods that do not completely use up or destroy natural resources”; “Able to last or continue for a long time”. [1] Oxford University Press’s Dictionary defines sustainable as: “Able to be maintained at a certain rate or level”; “Able to be upheld or defended”.[2] The United States Environmental Protection Agency assesses sustainability by considering “The Three Pillars of Sustainability”. This construct describes a balanced approach to long-term social, environmental, and economic objectives.[3] 
Taking a break from climbing
O'Cebreiro, a 1,300m mountain.
The Horizon Fund gave me a grant to compare the sustainability of the 545-mile pilgrimage called El Camino de Santiago in Northern Spain (El Camino) to the John Muir Trail (JMT) in California’s Sierra Nevada mountains. I wanted to assess the ability of the trails to ‘last or continue for a long time’. In order to do this, I evaluated the economic, environmental, and social sustainability of each of the trails.  My question: would El Camino de Santiago and the John Muir Trail be ‘able to be maintained at a certain rate or level’?   I wanted to find out. 
El Camino de Santiago
Entering the city of Santiago!
El Camino de Santiago, also known as The Way of St. James, is a pilgrimage where travelers walk various routes across Spain or Portugal to the shrine of the apostle St. James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain. This summer, from June 10th to July 9th, I completed the French Route as I started in Sean Jean Pied de Port, France and ended my walk in Finisterre, Spain (55 miles beyond Santiago de Compostela). During this journey, I walked 879km (545 miles) in 30 days.
Along the way, I hiked an average of 18.2 miles a day. I carried my clothes and my sleeping
Me and Jordan, my hiking parter,
after walking our first 100 miles!
bag in my backpack and, since the Camino passes through a village or town every five to ten kilometers, I bought all of my food as I went at local cafes and small shops (‘tiendas’). Each night I stayed in albergues, which are discounted pilgrim hostels with shared sleeping areas. These communal settings encouraged conversation and I was able to meet many people from all over the world. My original intention was to interview the hostel owners, however all of them only spoke Spanish and unfortunately, I didn’t  have a strong enough Spanish skillset to converse with them about sustainability. Instead, I made many observations along the way in order to assess the Camino. The path that I followed for 545 miles wound through farmland, forests, and desert landscapes, beside small roads and sometimes along main highways, and through hundreds of small villages. The path was usually so wide that so that you could walk next to one or a few people. I went with a friend, and it was nice to walk besides him and have conversations to make the miles pass. We also sometimes walked with other people from different countries and got to exchange stories about their lives and share memories of the path that we had walked so far. In 2013, 215,880 pilgrims
El Camino de Santiago
completed El Camino de Santiago. Of these pilgrims, 55% were men, 45% were woman; 56% were 30-60 years of age, 28% were under 30 years old, and 16% were over 60 years old; 49% were from Spain, and the remainder came from most popularly Germany, Italy, Portugal, the United States, France, and Ireland; 70% walked the French route, while the others walked through Portugal or on other routes through Spain.[4] The French path, which I traveled, experiences the most foot traffic, and has the most impact from pilgrims.
Economic Sustainability
Economic sustainability is the ability of an economy to support a defined level of economic production indefinitely.[5]
The Camino stimulates the local economy in all of the small towns along the way. I never once purchased food from a chain store, and instead I purchased from local cafes and independent markets. Each morning we bought breakfast (which usually consisted of a baguette with butter and jam), as well as coffee from a local café, in whichever village we were staying in.   During the day we walked
My typical breakfast of toast with
jam and butter.
through many fields of wheat, which most likely contributed to the ingredients for our bread. We also passed many dairy farms, which helped source the milk in the café con leche, my morning drink, and the dairy farms contributed to the butter on my toast as well. All of the meat that I consumed during our dinners at night was from Spain. Given that Spain is a relatively small country, all of the food was fairly local and the money that I spent was for the most part helping to fuel locals and their livelihoods, as their businesses were dependent upon ‘pilgrims’ who were doing the Camino.


The Camino helped to sustain hostels, cafes, restaurants, and small corner stores in hundreds of villages. We passed through tiny villages where the only visible industry
My favorite: cafe con lech
and source of income was the local hostel with an attached café. Other than the hospilateros, or people who owned the hostels, it seemed as if the populations of the small villages consisted of an older, retired demographic unless the village was within close proximity to a larger city. The Camino proved to be economically sustainable as it provides current and future jobs for locals in Spain. The number of people who complete the Camino will likely continue to grow, and thus more hostels and restaurants along the way may need to be opened up.
One afternoon I had some tea and read at a local café that had been opened by a Spanish and Croatian couple who had completed the Camino five years prior. They met and walked the Camino together and they loved the small town called Bercianos del Real Camino so much when they passed through it on their Camino that they decided to move there and open their own café. They saw the need for a relaxing afternoon spot, and five years later their café was thriving.  Our trip also included a stay in a massive and modern hostel that was less than a year old in a smaller rural village. I predict that new cafes and hostels will continue to open along the Way, as the Camino is sometimes referred to, thus creating more economic growth for these small villages.
            Economically, the Camino has potential to sustain itself. As it brings in a source of local income, it provides locals with employment and supports them and their families.   I would add that I would have liked to see more promotion of environmental practices at these hostels and cafés as there were seldom any signs that indicated that they considered themselves as stewards of the land. If the local industries encouraged sustainable environmental practices, then pilgrims might become more aware of their impacts on the land.
Environmental Sustainability
Environmental sustainability is the ability of the environment to support a defined level of environmental quality and natural resource extraction rates indefinitely.[6]
The typical width of the path.
As stated earlier, the path of the Camino runs alongside main roads, smaller roads, through farmers’ fields, through narrow village streets, and sometimes exists as a small independent trail. Unlike the JMT, the Camino does not run through protected land and there are no expectations of the ‘pilgrims’ to leave no trace. Every few kilometers there were trashcans to dispose garbage in, however there was no one to monitor the cleanliness of the whole Camino. I saw much more trash on the Camino than I did on the JMT, though for the most part the Camino didn’t have too much trash along side the trail. While on the JMT you have no choice but to carry out all of your trash, so consequently you become much more aware of all of the packaging you use. On the contrary, on the Camino you can buy a snack in a wrapper, eat it five minutes later, throw away the wrapper, and then forget that you even used a piece of plastic in the consumption of your snack. I don’t think that the Camino did a good job of increasing my awareness of my rate of consumption of resources.
One of the many yellow
arrows along the way.
 The French route of the Camino primarily passes through already settled land. My understanding was that the people who own the land where the Camino passes through are responsible for maintaining their particular stretch of the Camino, as well as the markings for the trail. What was unique to the Camino was the fact that you did not need a map the entire 545 miles. Instead, you followed bright yellow arrows pointing you in the right direction and they were present at every fork to help guide you. There was no designated trail crew on the Camino, as there were on the JMT. The Camino is a much older path than the JMT, as Europeans did the first pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela thousands of years ago. Over time, the path to Santiago de Compostela became more developed and better marked. However, the JMT was constructed all at once in the late 1800s and required modification of the landscape in 
order to construct a hikable path through the mountainous region. It was very rare for the Camino to come into contact with wild animals and the path was always so wide that there was no need to worry about destroying the flora in the area. When we did hike through mountainous regions, such as the Pyrenees in the south of France, we hiked along vehicle roads that went up into the mountains, as well as on very wide dirt walking trails. There were some signs of erosion and run off as the trails were very steep along the hillsides, but the trails were through relatively open areas, so it didn’t look like the construction of the trail required great destruction of local flora (though there may have been progressive degradation when the trail was originally established).
As in my everyday life at home in the United States, I used running showers, was able to flush the toilet, and had access to all necessary amenities along the way. By doing the Camino, I don’t think that my personal footprint on the environment shrunk at all. I consumed natural resources everyday, as I do when I am living in the States, including having access to fresh food, and having a mattress to sleep on every night. I don’t think that the Camino make me any more of a steward of the land than I was before I was there, and it didn’t challenge me to think about my environmental impact. I loved spending most of the day out on the trail hiking under the sun, however I was always rewarded with ‘typical’, first world accommodations at the end of each day.
Social Sustainability
Social sustainability is the ability of a social system, such as a country, family, or organization, to function at a defined level of social well-being and harmony indefinitely.[7]
The interactions that I had with many of the people on the Camino gave me hope that the Camino could last a long time. The people were definitely the most uplifting part of the whole experience. One morning, we stopped in a small tienda to buy our usual supplies for lunch. As we were outside the store packing up our goodies into our backpacks, the woman, who owned the store and sold
Enjoying the sun and our treats from
the kind woman.
us our food, asked if we wanted some tea. We welcomed her offer and she escorted us to sit on a handcrafted wooden bench in front of her shop in the warm morning sun. She proceeded to bring us not only wonderfully warm lemon-infused honey tea, but she also brought us bowls of raisins and bowls of biscuits and chocolate. We sat there in pure bliss, happy to have some snacks after being on the trail all morning. After we finished soaking in all the delicious flavors, I approached her and asked “¿Cuánto cuesta?” She replied that she didn’t need any money, and that our happiness was enough for her. I was blown away by her generosity and her genuine desire to make our days better. On top of that, her husband sent us on our way with a freshly picked bag of cherries.


            We received many other acts of kindness along the way. Once we were sitting on a park bench and a fellow pilgrim gave us a huge bag of cherries. A man in a local café gave us little charms with the local saint of the area. We got two free cookies from bakers, and the list goes on. It wasn’t so
Cherries a kind pilgrim gave us.
much about what we received, but the gesture of people going out of their way to be generous to us. This gave me faith in humanity and I now believe that good interactions with people in any setting potentially increases the social sustainability of that place. As a result of my intimate and kind interactions with the people on the Camino, I feel a stewardship for the Camino and I want other people to be able to have the same experience that I had. I want my children, and grandchildren to be able to embark on the same incredible journey that I went on. I think that when people develop ties to a place, the probability of them wanting to protect that area in the future significantly increases. The social support for the Camino is immense, as was proven
Me, Jordan, and Susanne from Ireland,
a sweet woman who we walked with one
day and shared a couple meals with. She
was the first person we saw when we got
to the Cathedral in Santiago.
through passionate conversations with fellow pilgrims towards the end of the Camino. Each of them had had numerous wonderful social experiences, and I knew that many of them would be back to complete the Camino. I know for myself that that definitely was not my last Camino. 
         


John Muir Trail Evaluation of Sustainability
The John Muir Trail
The John Muir Trail (JMT) is a 212-mile long trail that winds through the Sierra Nevada
mountain range of California. The JMT begins in Yosemite National Park and passes through five different wilderness areas before ending at Mount Whitney—the highest point in the contiguous United States.[8] This summer I started the trail in the Ansel Adams Wilderness, hiking in about 5 miles from Florence Lake to join the JMT, and ended my journey in Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park.  We hiked South to North, opposing the direction of most hikers who travel North to South. The entire section of the trail that I hiked was above 7,000 feet and the highest point I reached was 11,056 feet at Donahue Pass. I hiked 98 miles in 10 days, and climbed over 18,000 vertical feet.
The JMT is much more isolated than the Camino. I had some interactions with other hikers as I passed them on the trail and had some brief conversations, but for the most part, I spent most of the day alone. Each night I camped at a personal campsite, so contrary to the Camino, I wasn’t living in a community setting. I definitely had less human interaction on the JMT, but I still encountered about 50 hikers each day in passing.  Given that my dad and I were doing the trail in the opposite direction of
Sallie Keyes Lake
most people, we rarely encountered the same person twice. The trail itself on the JMT was also much narrower than the Camino path. You could seldom fit two hikers side by side on the paths as they were carved into mountainsides and carefully constructed from surrounding material such as granite rocks. The trail was much more isolated from civilization and the entire trail winded through protected wild land; hence, I became much more acquainted with the proximate flora and fauna.
Economic sustainability
Economic sustainability is the ability of an economy to support a defined level of economic production indefinitely.[9]
The Parks Service is struggling with obtaining enough funding to make the JMT economically sustainable.  While on the trail there is no charge to hike on the winding trails through the mountains, however there is a great deal of labor, and hence funding, that is associated with maintaining trails and
Rosaline Lake
enforcing environmental practices. On my eighth day out on the trail, I encountered my first ranger. She informed me that she was the only ranger employed the entire section from the border of Yosemite National Park to Mount Whitney, which is about a 180-mile stretch of the trail. She said that the wilderness area that she was being employed by had a severe lack of funding and she was the only ranger that they could afford during the summer season. This is unfortunate considering that she is supposed to monitor this whole section of the trail and ensure that hikers are being environmental stewards of the land and following all of the ‘Leave No Trace principles’ that hikers hopefully commit to when using the trails. The lack of rangers means that there could potentially be more acts of violation of the wilderness rules. Upon entering Yosemite National Park during the last two days of my trip I learned that Yosemite National Park employs at least 5 rangers for a much shorter stretch of the trail and also had enough funding to employ five or six trail crews that performed maintenance, which decreases the chance of the trail widening and overrunning the natural ecosystems.
            I think that there is potential to increase the funding for park rangers, which in turn would increase the monitoring of hikers on the trail, which would potentially enhance the environmental sustainability, as there would be more of an incentive for hikers to practice ‘Leave No Trace’ principles. To obtain my permit for the JMT, I only had to pay a $5 processing fee. I think that a potential solution would be for the Parks Service to charge an additional fee for the permit that could be distributed to the
various wilderness areas that encompass the trail. Part of the reason that Yosemite National Park had such a large workforce was because as everyone enters into the park, they have to pay a $20 fee per vehicle. This money contributes to the salary of all of the trail crews and forest rangers. In turn, trail crew employment ensures trail maintenance which reduces erosion and encroachment into the local ecosystem.  The rangers are able to make sure that hikers are being environmental stewards and also that they have a permit to be out on the trail, as the number of hikers on the trails is limited every year.
Environmental sustainability
Environmental sustainability is the ability of the environment to support a defined level of environmental quality and natural resource extraction rates indefinitely.[10]
The John Muir Trail and supporting parks in the area do a great job in communicating how to be an environmental steward as you hike and camp along the trail. At the entry point I used to the JMT,
The sunset on our last night on the
JMT over Lyell Canyon.
and along all of the entrances onto the trail, the ‘Leave No Trace’ principles are outlined on large signs. These same principles are printed on the wilderness permit required to enter the area. These principles include: plan ahead and prepare, travel and camp on durable surfaces, dispose of waste properly, leave what you find, minimize campfire hazards, respect wildlife, and be considerate of other visitors.[11] I think that most everyone I encountered along the JMT were very familiar with these practices. The JMT also limits the number of backpackers that can access the trail every year. This quota helps reduce the effects on wildlife and helps preserve the land so that the use of the JMT can be maintained for many years to come.
Another important practice that is specific to the JMT is storing your food in approved bear containers because the area previously had big problems with bears’ access to human food, thus interfering with their natural food sourcing. Since the implementation of the bear container practices, the bear populations have become healthier and less dependent on humans.[12] I became more aware of
Me and my 50 pound backpack overlooking Thousand
Island Lake.
my environmental impact on the JMT than I did on the Camino. I had to pack everything out that I carried in. At the end of the trip, we had a big bag of all of our trash, which consisted of the packaging of all of our food during our 10-day adventure. This put my environmental footprint into clear perspective as I could visually see all of the trash generated from my entire trip. I know that if I had had to carry all of the trash I produced on the Camino, my bag would have been much heavier at the end and I might have been more thoughtful about my consumption along the way.
             On the JMT I became increasingly aware of living simply. My dad and I ate only what we could carry (which was 35 pounds of food for 10 days for two people), drank just enough water as we had to hand pump a filter for clean water, and ate just enough to sustain our energy as we conquered mountain passes and hiked over rocky terrain. Upon entry back into “normal” life in civilization, I feel
My dad and I passing my 600th
mile walked this summer.
much more conscious of my consumption of packaged goods, my water use, and I am more thankful for the little things, such as a warm shower, a flushing toilet, and a comfortable bed. I am also more aware of properly disposing waste, such as composting and recycling. Other hikers were also amazed at how little they need to survive.
Social sustainability
Social sustainability is the ability of a social system, such as a country, family, or organization, to function at a defined level of social well-being and harmony indefinitely.[13]
            As mentioned earlier, the John Muir Trail seasonally limits the number of ‘through’ hikers in order to preserve the wilderness. There is a fine balance between human usage of the land and their interference with wildlife. In order to completely preserve the wilderness, there needs to be a complete
separation of humans and the land.  However this is not a reality along a well-traveled trail. Thus,
Sallie Keyes Lake.
humans must control their behavior and respect the wildlife around them. This includes carrying their food in bear containers, so that bears do not become reliant on human food, as well as camping in only designated camping areas so that flora does not get destroyed. Limiting the population of people along the trail helps minimize human impacts year to year and ensures that people whom are on the trail have a permit and are familiar with sustainable backpacking practices. The limitation of the number of hikers is crucial for the area to continue to be preserved.
While in the backcountry on the JMT, I feel as if I developed a spiritual connection to nature. Many of the people who I encountered on the trail were astounded by their surroundings and taken
Marie Lakes.
aback by the raw beauty that the Sierras demonstrated. It truly is a special place to spend a prolonged period of time and everyone that I talked to felt the same way about the mountains. My increased affinity with nature will cause me to take a stand for even more environmental issues in the future. I know that once I start donating to organizations that protecting National Parks, the ‘untouched’ areas of nature will be at the top of my list. I also feel more confident defending my view of the importance of protecting the environment. Previously, I would sometimes feel shy speaking up about environmental issues, but after feeling as if nature and myself were part of one interconnected system and living in the mountains and off of the land for a week and a half, I feel a responsibility to express my views and attitudes. I think that my experience will inspire others to immerse themselves in nature and I hope that they too will feel a strong connection to the land.
I think that when you have a profound experience and then you turn around and share it, there can be an exponential affect. For example, after the Camino and before the JMT, I was training for the JMT by walking an 8-mile loop in Redwood Regional Park in Oakland, California near my house with a large backpacking pack on. I received a number of curious looks with people focusing on my large load.   As I was walking past one man, he inquired about why I was carrying my large pack. I told him that I was training to do part of the John Muir Trail and I ended up walking with him for a mile or two. He told me that he had had the idea of doing the John Muir Trail in the back of his mind for 10 years and he told me that I inspired him to “finally do the damn thing” after 10 years of being slightly hesitant. We talked about a documentary that had recently come out about a group of artists who did the JMT and as we parted our ways at a junction in the trail, he said meeting me was a sign and wished me ‘happy trails’. Understandably, not everyone will be stimulated by my time spent out in nature, but as long as it touches a few people, then my experience will have a ‘ripple effect’ upon others as they perhaps seek a similar experience and then pass this on to others in their lives. Sharing stories can thus have an exponential effect on society and its trends.
The Horizon Fund has given me the opportunity to expand upon my classroom knowledge and
given me the opportunity to apply my comprehension to real life circumstances. I have learned that sustainability is multifaceted and requires evaluation from so many different positions. Economic, environmental, and social sustainability overlap, intertwine, and often are inseparable. I have developed a more critical eye to view the world with and like to think that through my experiences this summer, I have become an environmental steward of the land and will do my best in the future to protect this beautiful earth.



[1] http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/sustainability
[3] http://epa.gov/ncer/rfa/forms/sustainability_primer_v7.pdf
[4] http://www.caminodesantiago.me/2013-statistics-for-the-camino-de-santiago/
[5] http://www.thwink.org/sustain/glossary/ThreePillarsOfSustainability.htm
[6] http://www.thwink.org/sustain/glossary/ThreePillarsOfSustainability.htm
[7] http://www.thwink.org/sustain/glossary/ThreePillarsOfSustainability.htm
[8] http://johnmuirtrail.org/
[9] http://www.thwink.org/sustain/glossary/ThreePillarsOfSustainability.htm
[10] http://www.thwink.org/sustain/glossary/ThreePillarsOfSustainability.htm
[11] https://lnt.org/learn/7-principles
[12] http://www.pcta.org/discover-the-trail/backcountry-basics/food/protecting-your-food/
[13] http://www.thwink.org/sustain/glossary/ThreePillarsOfSustainability.htm